Italian wine regions: the greenest area of Europe, Abruzzo - DVJ - Italian Dolce Vita in Japan 〜日本におけるイタリアン・ドルチェ・ヴィータ

Abruzzo wine has a long history, praised since Roman times. In modern times, the Region suffered a slow development, but nowadays, the economy has grown sensibly. Thanks to improvements in techniques and methods, affordable and good-quality wines are produced, keeping the originality of the land.

Abruzzo hills — Image credits: Felix Homberger

Region overview

The Abruzzo region is situated in central Italy, just next to Rome’s Lazio region. It’s a charming area that has not yet been assaulted by overtourism. Thanks to this, it can still easily transmit authentic Italian essence. Abruzzo was sadly in the news in recent years for a big earthquake on April 6th 2009, and many cities, among them L’Aquila, were heavily impacted.

It’s a nature-rich region, so it is considered the greenest in Europe. It even gave birth to a number of famous Italian writers, including the Latin Ovid, Gabriele D’Annunzio, and Benedetto Croce.

Some of the most famous dishes are spaghetti alla chitarra (literally “guitar spaghetti”, fresh pasta cut through guitar-like strings), arrosticini (sheep skewers, similar to Japanese yakitori) and the pasta brand De Cecco.

Abruzzo square — Image credits: Sterling Lanier

Geography

The region’s geography highly influences the winemaking process and grape quality. Gran Sasso and Maiella mountains, a short distance from the Adriatic Sea, generate temperature ranges between day and night, which, together with good ventilation, create an ideal microclimate for vines. The soil is difficult to cultivate, but the water from the Apennines is very good, and the mountains shield the cold north winds.

The soil is composed of clay and limestone, and some sand. The rainfall level is not very high and the Mediterranean climate is mostly enjoyed. Heroic viticulture can also be found, but wine is mainly produced between the gentle mountain to sea gradation.

Abruzzo luca-di-pardo — Image credits: Luca di Pardo

Winemaking Tradition, wines and vines

Vineyards are cultivated using the traditional tendone Abruzzese system or the row system (impianto a filare).

There are two most common grape varieties: Montepulciano (to be distinguished from the famous Montepulciano wine, which is produced in Tuscany) and Trebbiano. The former accounts for more than half of the region’s production and is one of the great Italian reds, while the latter can be used to produce both young and long-lived white wines.

Other wines are Pecorino, Passerina, Cococciola and Montonico (still whites). They are increasingly appreciated, mainly in Germany, the USA, Canada and Japan.

Abruzzo village — Image credits: Federico di Dio

Where to find Abruzzo wines in Japan

Many wines are sold in specialised shops like Enoteca for example.

If you want to try authentic Abruzzo cuisine paired with its wine, the obvious choice is “Trattoria dai Paesani” in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Giuseppe Sabatino and Davide Fabiano from Abruzzo have run the restaurants for one decade. Even the Gambero Rosso guide mentions it as one of the best Italian restaurants in Japan.

At the latest Sakura Japan Women’s Award 2024, the Abruzzo wine Pemo was awarded a GOLD MEDAL, signaling the increasing recognition of the region’s wines in the country.

As a side note, although not specifically Abruzzo cuisine (or wine), the mind behind Bulgari Hotel Michelin restaurant, is the one of Chef Niko Romito, who is, indeed, from Abruzzo.