Independent tailor shops in Japan, especially Tokyo, recently flourished, bringing Italian style to the fashionistas

Suits and classic wear in Japan have seen significant development, likely due to people’s elegance and the strict workplace dress codes that require office employees to wear complete suits. It’s remarkable how seriously menswear is taken, especially considering that until the late 1800s, everyone still wore kimonos, with the full transition to Western clothing occurring only around the 20th century.

Japan has cultivated its unique style, initially influenced by British tailoring but later adapting to local taste and its own identity. While British suits remain popular among enthusiasts, there is a well-recognized passion for Italian tailoring too. Many Japanese tailors have traveled to Naples, Florence, and Milan to train their skills, bringing their newly acquired expertise back to Japan.

The following list is not comprehensive but serves as a starting point for exploring classic Italian wear in Tokyo. This article focuses on independent tailor shops; department stores and chains would require a separate list.

List of shops:
1 Sarto
2 MICHELE&Shin 
3 The Dressing Lab
4 Pecora Ginza
5 Artigiano Ciao
6 Sartoria Speranza
7 Sartoria Ciccio
8 Vesta by John Ford
9 Anglofilo

1. Sarto 

Sarto, established in 2000, has become a notable name in Tokyo for made-to-measure suits and high-quality alteration services. With six stores in Japan and partner locations overseas, Sarto continues to grow and cater to discerning clients.

At Sarto, customers can benefit from the expertise of personal stylists who guide them through the process of creating custom suits. A standout feature of Sarto is its commitment to long-term service, offering free alterations for up to ten years after purchase. This ensures that their made-to-measure suits, jackets, and pants can be adjusted as needed over time. The Ginza shop also houses an on-site cobbler, providing services for perfectly fitted shoes and dress shoe repairs. 

2. MICHELE&Shin 

MICHELE&shin brings the elegance of fully custom Italian-made suits to Tokyo, emphasizing beauty and meticulous craftsmanship. Unlike Japanese suits that prioritize comfort, MICHELE & shin focuses on creating visually striking suits that are also enjoyable to wear. Their fully custom suits embody the Italian belief that true elegance comes from aesthetic appeal combined with expert tailoring. Tehy believe that Italian suits always lead the trends of suits worldwide and this is because they are constantly challenging new designs. MICHELE&Shin is on a mission to offer what Italian gentlemen would genuinely wear.

3. The Dressing Lab

The style sought by The Dressing Lab captures the essence of Italian tailoring through the skilled hands of Japanese craftsmen. The result is suits that feature the soft, lightweight, and rounded forms typical of Italian sartorial masters, combined with the precision and meticulous stitching of Japanese tailoring for a refined finish.

Their made-to-order suits use the traditional “full canvas” specification with a horsehair canvas base. This meticulous process involves repeated ironing and stitching, resulting in exceptional three-dimensional form and stress-free comfort suits. Despite the time required, this ensures our suits maintain their shape even with long-term use, exemplifying the excellence of Japanese craftsmanship fused with Italian style.

4. Pecora Ginza

Pecora Ginza, founded in 2000 in Tokyo’s Ginza district by Hideaki Sato, embodies a blend of Italian tailoring and Japanese craftsmanship. Sato first trained under renowned tailor Tsukumo Igarashi and later on in France and Italy. His experience includes studying the Vauclair-Darroux method in Paris and apprenticing with master tailor Mario Pecora in Milan, who taught him to respect the client’s vision while enhancing individuality. Pecora Ginza’s suits are known for their soft hand-sewn details, affluent curves, and Northern Italian tailoring techniques, all crafted by a small, skilled team under Sato’s careful guidance. This dedication ensures each suit offers a perfect, elegant fit.

5. Artigiano Ciao

Founded in 2009, this store specializes in Classico Italia clothing, a rare type of shop in Japan dedicated to high-quality, timeless menswear. Inspired by a passion for Classico Italia, their mission is to help customers acquire and cherish truly exceptional clothes and shoes. The term “Classico” refers to items that embody mainstream quality and supreme craftsmanship, maturing over time to become cultural icons. The store focuses on Italian clothing that resists fleeting trends, offering garments that are both traditional and refined. They provide a curated selection of Classico Italia menswear, ensuring each piece is an investment in enduring style and quality.

6. Sartoria Speranza

The specialty of Sartoria Speranza lies in soft tailoring with an Italian touch, enhancing fabric texture for unparalleled comfort. Skillful adjustments by craftsmen shine through in canvas setting processes and ironing techniques, sculpting three-dimensional jackets that contour the body flawlessly.

Each suit undergoes approximately 450 delicate processes, showcasing their passion for meticulous craftsmanship. Rooted in history since 1906 with the founding of “Sato Clothing Store” in Motomiya City, Fukushima Prefecture, their dedication to sewing excellence has endured. Evolving into “Motomiya Santo Suits Co., Ltd.” in 1968, they launched “Sartoria Speranza” in 2019, symbolizing a commitment to tailoring expertise and optimism. They aim to instill confidence and hope in their customers through high-quality garments.

7. Sartoria Ciccio

Noriyoshi Ueki, known as ‘Ciccio’, leads Sartoria in Minami Aoyama, infusing Neapolitan tailor style with urban sophistication. Trained under Italian masters Dal Quore and Antonio Pascariello, his style blends Neapolitan softness with Japanese attention to detail. Starting at Ring Jacket in Japan, Ueki ventured to Naples, learning at Sartoria Dalcuore and Sartoria Pascariello. Returning to Japan, he worked at Tie Your Tie before establishing his workshop in 2015. Sartoria Ciccio epitomizes elegance, with Ueki and his team crafting garments that redefine sartorial excellence in Tokyo.

8. Vesta by John Ford

These suits are a harmonious blend of Italian design and Japanese craftsmanship. Carefully crafted patterns, designed by italian maestros, flatter the silhouette, accentuating masculine features with a slim waist and voluminous chest. Hand-stitched by skilled Japanese tailors in Ginza, each garment undergoes meticulous attention to detail, ensuring both beautiful proportions and comfortable movement. Premium materials sourced from Italy, including natural linings and rare bath hair cores, contribute to the overall quality. From the careful selection of fabrics to the intricate tailoring process, these suits exemplify a perfect marriage of Italian elegance and Japanese precision.

9. Anglofilo

Yusuke Ono, Japan’s renowned tailor, now operates from Bryceland’s in Harajuku following an invitation from Ethan Newton, a long-time friend. Ono’s craftsmanship reflects the essence of Neapolitan tailoring, which he learned during his two years in Naples and after a year in Florence. His distinct cuts, characterized by unique curves, exude a classic nobility, enhanced by techniques such as darting at the hip pockets and flaring hemlines. Due to his considerable popularity, Ono’s demand surpasses capacity, resulting in a delivery time of around a year and a half. No matter the passing of time, Ono always remains committed to replicating Italian style with unparalleled dedication.

結論

Tokyo’s menswear scene is a testament to the global influence of Italian tailoring, beautifully adapted by Japanese craftsmen who combine their meticulous attention to detail with the elegance of Italian design. The independent tailor shops highlighted here represent the pinnacle of this fusion, offering bespoke suits that embody both tradition and modernity. Whether you’re seeking the timeless appeal of Classico Italia or the refined artistry of Neapolitan tailoring, Tokyo provides a wealth of options for the discerning gentleman. These tailors not only bring a piece of Italy to Japan but also elevate the local sartorial landscape, ensuring that each suit tells a unique story of craftsmanship, culture, and style.

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